A tale of forgotten step-well, encroached lakes



BHOPAL: It is a three-storey deep structure in the middle of graveyard called Bada Bagh. The wide flight steps, which lead into a step-well was built by Nawab Wazir Mohammed Khan and later conserved by Nawab Qudsia Begum.


"A close look inside shows the ornamental structures that surrounded the well, are colonnade with cusp arches and slender pillars," said conservation architect Savita Raje. She points to niches that decorate the wall along the entrances. This baoli or step-well was built around 1819.

Raje explains that Bhopal got its next set of inter-connected lakes when Nawab Shah Jahan Begum created a new suburb called Shahjehanabad in 1874. After constructing Idgah on the highest point near this new suburb, three new terraced lakes--Motia Talab, Noor Mahal Talab and Munshi Hussaini Talab-- were constructed. The three lakes were dependent on seasonal rains.

To maintain balance and level of water in these lakes, an additional reservoir was constructed to the north of Shahjehanabad. An elaborate system of brick-lined vaulted drains collected water and brought it to the lakes. These channels passed through important buildings before delivering the water to the lakes. The channels were transformed into splashing fountains and gurgling cascades.

Legend has it that rose water or 'kewda' was added to this water to cool and freshen air.

"It is an excellent example of ground water recharge. This step-well would have water all-round the year and still does," said Raje. The evaporative loss of water is fairly high in a place like Bhopal and these step-wells provided conditions of shade to reduce water evaporation.

However, the step-wells of Bhopal and majority of the lakes constructed by the then rulers of Bhopal have been decaying for long.

Post-independence as the city of Bhopal grew, urbanization and population pressure further worsened the condition of these water bodies. The present day rulers added to poor state by ignoring them.

The result: Baoli has been forgotten and lakes have been encroached.
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Nawab Shahjahan Begum





Shahjahan Begum
Nawab Shahjahan Begum
(July 29, 1838 - June 16, 1901)


  • She was the ruler for two terms: 1844-60, and secondly during 1868-1901.
  • The only surviving child of Nawab Sikandar Begum, she was born in Islamnagar near Bhopal.
  • In 1844, at the tender age of 6, she was recognised as the ruler of Bhopal. However, as she was a minor, her mother wielded power as regent.
  • She married Waki Mohammad Khan on 26th July 1855.
  • In 1860, the British recognised her mother Sikandar Begum as the Nawab of Bhopal in her own right.
  • Finally, in 1868 when her mother passed away, Shahjahan became the Nawab of Bhopal.
  • One of her daughters Suleman Jahan expired at quite a young age.
  • Her husband expired on 24th June 1867
  • Her second husband was Nawab Siddiq Hasan Khan, the marriage being solemnized on 8th May 1871.
  • Nawab Siddiq expired on 20th February 1890.
  • Her rein lasted up to 1901, when she died on 16th June in Taj Mahal.
  • She was a lady with loads of energy and courage.

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